California Zoological Supply

CALZOO'S REFERENCE SHEET > Leopard Geckos

Latin name	Eublepharis macularius	Maximum length	7 - 9 inches (Includes tail)
Native to	Pakistan, Northern India, Iran, Iraq & Afghanistan	Approximate life span	15-18 years

GENERAL INFORMATION
All the Leopard Geckos offered by California Zoological Supply have been captive bred. They are one of the most popular gecko with beautiful gold, black and white patterns. The genus they belong to (as you can see in their Latin name) is Eublepharis. This refers to their ability to open and close their eyes. Eublephar translates to "typical eyelid". Most geckos cannot close their eyes, just like all snakes. Leopard Geckos eat their shed skin which is beneficial to their diet. Do not remove it from their bodies. However, if the lizard has shed most of it's skin and is unable to remove all of it (on the toes, around the eyes, etc.) you might need to help them remove these remaining bits. Swab the area with hydrogen peroxide. Be careful around the eyes. Don't pull on the tail as Leopard Geckos will readily release them. A new one will grow in it's place but will never look the same as the original. Unlike many other geckos, Leopard Geckos cannot climb vertical surfaces. Their toes lack the lamellae which act like suction cups found on other geckos, including Tokay Geckos, House Geckos and Day Geckos. Leopard Geckos are very alert, but sometimes clumsy or aloof. They are active during the dusk and dawn hours and can be fun to watch as they stalk their prey. Once they get a fix on the item, their eyes widen, their tail starts to wiggle and then they pounce! Hatchling Leopard Geckos can be kind of feisty. Although harmless, baby Leopard Geckos will sometimes rear back, make a buzzing sound and strike out. It's more cute than alarming. Even adult Leopard Geckos would have a hard time doing any harm if they bit you. If you hold a light up to a Leopard Gecko's ear you will be able to see the light right through it's head! Hatchlings and juveniles will be less accepting to handling than established adults. This is an inherent survival trait common to most reptiles and will fade as the geckos get older. Adults become very docile and are easy to breed. Females can start laying eggs at 1.5 - 2 years of age with 1 - 2 eggs per clutch typically being laid. Eggs are generally laid from January through September. An interesting quality of the Leopard Gecko is, you can to a point, determine the sex of the offspring. During incubation, low temperatures (79 - 83ºf) will produce mostly females. High temperatures (90 - 92ºf) will produce mostly males. An incubation temperature set between the two (around 85ºf) will produce a good mixture of both males and females. Adult males can be identified from adult females by looking at the vent area. Males will have a prominent row of enlarged pores in the shape of a "V".

ENCLOSURE
A 10 gallon aquarium with a well-ventilated lid is suitable for 1 adult Leopard Gecko. If a pair or trio are going to be housed together, a 20 gallon aquarium is recommended. It is best to keep only 1 male per enclosure. Two or more adult males together tend to fight. Decorate with Zoo Med REPTI FLORA, Zoo Med DESERT TERRARIUM TREES, low branches for climbing and sturdy hiding places. Include dampened sphagnum moss or Zoo Med REPTI BARK™ in the hiding place. This will aid the lizard in shedding and help keep them from dehydrating.

SUBSTRATE
Provide at least 1 inch of sand. DO NOT use silica sand, the dust is harmful to you and the animals! Play sand is available at most hardware stores or you may use dry Zoo Med REPTI BARK™.

TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY
Daytime temperatures 80 - 82°f, basking area 85 - 90°f. Nighttime temperatures can drop as low as, but no lower than, 70°f. Keep the humidity level low (except for the hiding place). Keep hiding place around 80ºf.

HEATING
Use a Zoo Med REPTITHERM® UNDER TANK HEATER (U.T.H.). Leave it on 24 hours a day. UTH's take a few hours to reach their optimal temperature. They may be placed on the back glass of your enclosure as well as the floor. For easy heat control, use a Zoo Med REPTI-TEMP™ RHEOSTAT in conjunction with the U.T.H's or rock heaters. Reptiles need to be able to regulate their body temperature, so a temperature gradient must be provided for. A basking area consisting of a Zoo Med REPTI™ BASKING SPOT BULB should also be provided during the day. Always use at least one thermometer, two is optimal. One on the cooler side, one on the warmer side. A Zoo Med DELUXE ANALOG MIN/MAX THERMOMETER works great to show the high and low temperatures in a 24 hour period.

LIGHTING
UVB is not a necessity, but not harmful. If desired, use Zoo Med REPTISUN™ fluorescent 8 - 12 hours a day. The UVA this bulb provides is beneficial to the psychological well-being of reptiles. All reptiles and amphibians need a photo period. A plug in timer (for your white lights only, do not use a timer for your heating devices) works well to develop a regular photo period (light cycle) of 8 - 10 hours of light, 14 - 16 hours of dark. Reptiles and amphibians cannot see the red light spectrum, so a low wattage red bulb is ideal for nighttime viewing.

FOOD & WATER
Feed your Leopard Geckos every two to three days. Hatchling Leopard Geckos will eat small sized crickets. Juveniles will eat medium sized crickets and wax worms. Adults will eat large crickets, wax worms, king mealworms and pinkie mice. Regular mealworms are not recommended since their hard outer skin can be hard to digest and, if ingested alive, can do great internal damage. Dust crickets lightly with Zoo Med REPTIVITE® vitamins and a powdered calcium supplement every other feeding. Provide a small, shallow water bowl with fresh water. Hatchling Leopard Geckos should be lightly misted twice weekly to assist them in shedding their skin. They will also enjoy the bath!

NOTES
Always wash your hands before and immediately after handling reptiles and amphibians. Never leave live food long term with reptiles & amphibians. They can inflict severe harm, even kill your pet. If your animals take some time to eat or you feed them at night, leave a slice of potato, carrot or dry dog food for the live food items to eat. Your local pet shop is an ideal source for reptile and amphibian related books and supplies. Please make sure you read and become familiar with any instructions provided with reptile support products you may purchase.

For further information on reptiles and amphibians we recommend you read REPTILES MAGAZINE and THE VIVARIUM. California Zoological Supply hopes you have enjoyed reading this reference sheet on Leopard Geckos. We hope that our guidelines will assist you with the care or possible purchase of your new pet.

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